CHARCUTIER. SALUMIERE. WURSTMEISTER.
Vecchio, Francois Paul-Armand
Photos by Silva, Elizabeth Pepin
ISBN: 978-0615720845; January 13, 2014
A culinary cri de coeur by Silva and Vecchio that explores the history, process and prospective future of sausage making.
This book approaches sausage creation as both an art and a science. It begins by introducing readers to the industry’s leading artisans from Spain, France, Italy and Switzerland, who each offer their own unique philosophies regarding their trade. Despite their differences, however, all are bound by their dedication to making quality pork products. The authors’study focuses on the care and attention that these artisanal producers bestow upon their work, culminating in a diary-style recounting of Hawaii-based charcutier Thomas Pickett’s experiences giving pork seminars. An in-depth examination of the current state of the sausage industry follows, which can be read as a kind of call to arms. The authors ask for a re-evaluation of the industry’s core values—namely, they advocate a return to quality over quantity. They also look at how traditional approaches not only make for a better tasting sausage, but are also more environmentally sound.
The book heralds a new wave of chefs and butchers who have a respect for sustainability, humane husbandry, organic growth and ecology. It also offers a series of educational chapters that tackle important subjects such as spices, salting, chopping, stuffing, tying and aging. Alongside the fundamentals, the authors consider the minutiae of the craft, such as the role of activated proteins during the mixing process. They also include more than 40 detailed, step-by-step recipes for everything from the ominous headcheese—a sausage made from snout, lips, cheek and tongue—to the deliciously spicy nduja sausage from Calabria. This approachable, elegant book, clearly the result of extensive research, will appeal to master butchers as well as ambitious home cooks.
A study that may become the new sausage makers’ bible, outstanding in its range, depth and clarity.
Kirkus Indie, Kirkus Media LLC, 6411 Burleson Rd., Austin, TX 78744
Order the VIDEO: The Art and Philosophy of Producing Quality Pork Products (2014).
Order the BOOK: Charcutier. Salumiere. Wurstmeister. by Francois Paul-Armand Vecchio and Elizabeth Pepin Silva (Jan 13, 2014)
Written for the deep education of Apprentices and those wanting to penetrate the mysteries of making good meat products.
The book encompasses 5 parts:
- 10 visits of artisans from Catalonia, France, Switzerland and Italy
- Approach to the industry today, core discussion of value and step by step review of the skills and crafts, from butchering to slicing and tasting, what makes real quality.
- 50 recipes to valorise the pork from snout to tail.
- Computing spreadsheet to control; yields and costs
- Starter cultures and fermenting.
222 pages. 137 images.
THE STORY AND TEACHING
In 2010 I began, with a tour of friends in Cataluña, Lyon, Ticino and Italy, to illustrate traditional Charcuterie and Salumeria.
The following years we held yearly workshops in Alaska, where we lived to convey the craft to eager chefs and apprentices.
We created a portofoglio of step-by-step illustrations of how we broke the pigs with the help of Liz Pepin Silva. The pictures are available on my Internet site: http://www.francoisvecchio.com/breaking-and-trimming-the-whole-pig
Liz also produced a professional video of how I break, bone, trim and comment on the business of making quality meat: The Art and Philosophy of Producing Quality Pork products.
By this early year I was concluding the slow elaboration of my book “Charcutier. Salumiere. Wurstmeister. As a self-published work, using the system of CreateSpace, a division of Amazon.
I have done my best to convey the spirit, the soul of what the craft can produce to create true quality, a very different value than what mass industrial production offers.
I hope to serve this way the renaissance happening now amongst many young chefs in America; surely the time has arrived for a renewal in charcuterie, salumi and wurst of the same nature as we have seen I the recent past renew wine, cheese, bread and brews.
Started with the first students of the seminars in Palmer, we have a Facebook group, which continues the discours: https://www.facebook.com/groups/salumi.charcuterie.wurst/